Many friends from home have asked me what a typical day in Mali is like. In order to answer this question it is crucial to explain the art of tea making. There is never a time of day that someone somewhere in Mali is not making tea. It is done while people relax after returning from an early morning in the fields, chatting with friends in the afternoon, it guaranteed that during every meeting tea will be passed around at some point, and after dinner groups sit around and drink tea while nodding off.
To get started you need 2 small teakettles, 2 small glasses (almost like shot glasses), 1 package of green tea, a jug of water, sugar (lots), a small charcoal stove, and ginger or mint (optional).
In one teakettle put three and a half cups of water and bring to a roaring boil. Then place the entire package of tea into the boiling water. Let it brew for far too long… no really feel free to take a nap before taking the tea off the fire (Malians certainly do).
When you think it is done remove the tea from the stove. In order to do this like a proper Malian DO NOT use a potholder you rely on the calluses on your hands when handing hot items.
Pour the tea into the small glasses and then into the other teakettle.
Once all the tea is transferred fill one glass with sugar and pour into the kettle. Once again pour the tea in the glasses putting it back in the kettle when done… this serves as stirring the sugar in.
It is important to note now that foam is a very important part of the tea making process. When you mix the tea the higher you raise the kettle when pouring it into the glasses the more foam builds up in the glasses and remember the more foam the better!
Once the tea and sugar are well mixed place the kettle on the fire. Be sure to taste test a bit and add more sugar if needed (and lets be honest it is probably needed).
Then clean the outside of the glasses, which have most likely gotten sticky due to the stirring process.
Once the tea is steaming hot again remove it from the fire (remember NO potholder).
Pour tea into each glass—half the glass should be tea and half foam and serve.
When serving tea in Mali it is all about respect. The most respected person is served first followed by the next and so on. For example, every night I go to my homologues house for tea. He is always served first, then me (because I am white—the woman thing goes out the window), then the other men around, followed by his first wife then second wife, finally if there is any left the children get small glass.
When you have finished serving you repeat this process twice. But this time you can add ginger or mint to the boiling teakettle to add some flavor. There is no need to cut back on the sugar so basically by the third round its ideal to be drinking sugary water!
Important to note: There IS NO rush. Take your time—if this takes three hours GREAT you’re doing it right. If you can imagine doing this two or three times a day well then you have some idea of what a day is like in Mali.
Go forth and brew tea.
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